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Buses, Trains, Cigarettes and Disrespecting Women

The Standells - Dirty Water

Author: Stephen DeVoy

When I was about 12 years old, my cousin Bob and my friend Rusty skipped school and went on our first clandestine adventure. The overall goal was to go from Dedham, Massachusetts to the South Shore Plaza in Braintree. By car, this would be about six miles. However, we were only 12 and could not drive, so we had to take public transportation. Braintree is pretty much due east from Dedham. There were no buses connecting the two points, so we had to get creative.


This was back in 1974 and there was no Internet back then. We knew there was a bus that passed through Dedham Square that went to Forest Hills and we had heard that one could take a train from there into Boston. Now, Boston was to the north, but we figured you could get from Boston to anywhere, so it stood to reason that if we could get to Boston, we could get to Braintree.


We boarded the bus in Dedham Square. Miniskirts were common at the time. Girls our age were in school, so the only women walking on the sidewalk were adults. As the bus slowly went up Washington Street, we whistled at any and all beautiful young women we saw along the way through the opened window. We got a few middle fingers, but we got a few blushing smiles with waves as well. I can not imagine behaving that way now, but we were boys going through the beginning of puberty and felt really macho doing this.


After a long while, the bus entered a dumpy green structure smeared with white pigeon shit arching over two streets lined with buses, pulled over, and stopped. The driver announced, "Forest Hills."


We got off the bus and followed the crowd to an old narrow escalator with wooden steps mounted on an old iron conveying frame. The steps were so old that the decades of use had worn shoe sized grooves into their surfaces. The escalator clunked up to the level of the platform where we bought tokens, passed through a turnstile, and gathered on the concrete's edge waiting the train. We took turns showing off our intelligence to each other by explaining what rail provided the power and which provided the grounding for the electronic trains, along with any other obvious and inane observations we could make. An orange and white train pulled up and we got on.


We were raised in the suburbs where everyone was white. When I say everyone, I mean more than 99% percent and that was not an exaggeration. We now found ourselves surrounded, for the first time in our lives, but a human tapestry of all colors, shapes, and sizes. It was quite an adventure for three white boys from New England. The train ran along a very old and rickety track suspended above Washington Street by a monstrous iron structure painted with chipping green paint. The rails were attached to wooden supports which lay horizontally across the suspended metal structure. As the train moved forward, it rocked from side to side.


At the first stop, we entered what was then a Puerto Rican neighborhood. I remember thinking to myself how beautiful the women boarding the train at this stop, "Green Street", were. As the train stopped at the next sequence of stops, the new passengers became progressively African-American. We excitedly noticed the Prudential Center (the tallest building in Boston at that time) to the left of the train. When we pulled into Dudley station, we were in the heart of what was then the center of Boston's black ghetto, Dudley Station. Later I would learn that this was the haunting ground of the likes of Malcolm X and Donna Summers.



Dudley Station
Dudley Station

We examined the route maps for the trains posted on the wall and saw that the closest we could get to Braintree via the trains was Quincy Center, a stop on the Red Line (at that time, that is as far as the Red Line went). To do so, we would have to change trains at Washington Street (later known as Downtown Crossing). The train went underground just before Essex station and then stop at Washington Street one stop later.


We found our way to the Red Line, waited, and boarded a train. To my surprise, my cousin pulled out a pack of cigarettes and offered me one. I don't know whether smoking was prohibited on the trains at that time, but we stood at the end of one car, our group of three, and I smoked my first cigarette with them. We thought ourselves really cool, standing at the end of a subway car, under the ground, 12 years old with cigarettes in our mouths. No one stopped us.


Eventually, the train emerged from the underground and ran on the surface, heading southward, through Dorchester and on to Quincy. At Quincy Center we exited the train and found our way to the bus platform. We asked other passengers if there was a bus to the South Shore Plaza in Braintree, and sure enough there was. We went to the right location, waited, and the bus came. We boarded and it took us to the South Shore Plaza. In total, we traveled about 20 miles to get six miles, but that was a very big accomplishment for three 12 year old boys from the suburbs.


Since we were so young, we had very little money. After reviewing our collective holdings, we discovered that we had only enough left to get home and maybe buy a few bottles of coke along the way. We were very hungry and we needed to eat. I figured we'd just starve until we got home, but my cousin had his own idea. He was far more streetwise than I was and I would never have thought of his solution. He told us, "Don't worry. I know where we can eat. Just come with me."


The three of us walked through the mall to Jordan Marsh, a large department store, and followed Bob up the crisscrossing escalators to the third floor. On the third floor there was a small cafe of the kind that one would find in a "Woolworth" of that time. We sat at a bar on swivel stools, picked up the menu, and ordered one hot dog and one coke each. After eating, I asked my cousin, "So what do we do now? Is this free?"


"Kind of," he said. "When I count to three, we get up and run like hell. One, two, three..."


Before I had completely processed what we were doing, I was running with the three of them as fast as I could towards the escalator. The waitress was running after us yelling "security!" Now, at that time, people working in stores did not have walkie talkies and cameras were few. The only people who knew what was going on were right behind us. My cousin leaped onto the banister of the escalator and slid down it on his ass, we followed and did the same thing. When he hit the point where the up and down escalator crossed, he leaped over to the other escalator. The adults following us couldn't do the same thing and we lost them. We continued crisscrossing between escalators all the way down to the bottom floor. From there we ran like hell out of Jordan Marsh and into the mall were we were swallowed up by the crowd.


We hung around the mall for another hour and then began our trip back, using the same route we used to get there. As we took the Orange Line through Roxbury, we looked longingly at the Prudential Center. We decided to get off at Dudley Station, the closest stop on the Orange Line to the Prudential Center, and walk to the building, using the building itself as our guide to getting there.


The train stopped at Dudley and we exited along with hundreds of black passengers. We were the only whites exiting. We followed the crowd down to the street and looked around until we spotted the Prudential Building. There was no street that went straight there, so we zigzagged through the streets of Roxbury on our way to that tall building. None of us had seen a ghetto before. All we knew about Roxbury was what we were told. We were told that whites were not welcome there, that we would get mugged if we went there, and that it was dangerous.


The poverty was terrible. Drunken men sat on the stairs leading from the sidewalks up to the triple decker buildings that housed their apartments. Many people were very thin, as thin as people we had seen on television programs showing poverty in the third world. I was moved by this. In our walk from Dudley to the Prudential Building, not a single person bothered or harassed us. Some even smiled at us. In their eyes, we were just children and unlike our white counterparts, they weren't throwing rocks at the children of another race.


At the Prudential Center, we took the elevator up to the top floor. We did not have enough money to pay the entrance fee, but the man at the entrance let us in anyway. It was a real thrill to see the world from the top of this skyscraper. We looked out with our mouths agape and wondered what it would be like to fall from way up there.


Walking back to Dudley, we went into a store to buy a quart of Coke. It was cheaper than three smaller bottles. We took turns swigging from it as we walked. When we arrived at the station a neighborhood boy blocked our entrance. He was our age and he demanded that we pay him to get by, "or he'd kick our asses." We backed off and huddled. We concluded that he figured that three white boys would be frightened by him. However, there were three of us and one of him. Obviously, we'd win. We came back, pushed him out of the way, and walked up the stairs to the train station, where we boarded the train without further incident.


The rest of our ride back was uneventful. We were tired. We arrived home before dinner and no one ever knew where we had gone or what we had done. I for one enjoyed this adventure enough to remember it for the rest of my life. It was the first of many increasingly independent adventures. It was my first big step into the world beyond home.


Copyright © 2008, Stephen DeVoy. All rights reserved. Copying and republishing is prohibited without prior written permission of the author.